One of the first questions people ask when told they need a rewire is how long it will take.
The honest answer is that it depends on several factors, but most domestic rewires follow a predictable process and can be planned around with the right preparation.
This guide explains the stages involved, the realistic timescales for different types and sizes of property, what the disruption to your home actually looks like, and how to sequence a rewire with other building work to minimise cost and inconvenience.
The Two Stages of a Rewire
Every rewire, whether it is a full house rewire or a rewire of a single floor or extension, is carried out in two distinct stages separated by the plastering and decoration phase.
First fix is the stage where all the cable is run throughout the property. The electrician works through every room, routing cable for each circuit from the consumer unit position to every socket outlet, light fitting, switch, and fixed appliance connection. Back boxes are installed into the walls. The consumer unit mounting position is prepared. At the end of first fix, the walls are full of cables and open back boxes, none of it connected or functional. The property then goes to the plasterers and decorators before the electrician returns.
Second fix is the stage where everything is completed. The consumer unit is installed and all circuits are connected and labelled. Sockets, switches, light fittings, and accessory plates are fitted. The installation is then inspected and tested in full before the supply is connected and power is restored. An Electrical Installation Certificate is issued on completion.
The gap between first and second fix can range from a few days to several months depending on the overall building programme.
In a full renovation where the property is stripped back to brick before work starts, first fix happens early in the programme, second fix happens near the end, and the gap accommodates all the plastering, drying time, and first coats of decoration that happen in between.
In a more modest rewire of an occupied house, the two stages may follow within a week or two, as there is less plastering involved and the programme is more compressed.
How Long Does Each Stage Take?
The duration of a rewire depends primarily on the number of circuits, the number of socket and lighting positions, the accessibility of the cable routes, and whether the property is occupied or empty.
For a one or two bedroom flat, a full rewire typically takes two to three days for first fix and one to two days for second fix, assuming standard ceiling heights and accessible cable routes.
A two bedroom terraced house with a standard layout and accessible loft space typically takes three to four days for first fix. Second fix is typically two days.
A three bedroom semi-detached house is commonly four to five days for first fix. Second fix two to three days.
A four bedroom detached house with separate garage, multiple outbuildings, or a more complex layout may take five to seven days for first fix and three to four days for second fix. A larger or more complex property, or one with a basement, additional floors, or multiple outbuilding supplies, will take longer.
These are indicative figures for a property where the cable routes are reasonably accessible via the loft and via surface routes where needed. A property where all cables must be chased into solid walls with no accessible void space will take considerably longer for first fix.
Chasing In vs Surface Wiring and Trunking
One of the most consequential decisions in a rewire, particularly for an occupied property, is how the cables are to be run: chased into the wall plaster, or run on the surface using conduit or trunking.
Chasing into walls means cutting a channel, or chase, into the plaster and masonry using an angle grinder or a dedicated chasing tool. The cable is laid in the chase and covered with a steel conduit section for mechanical protection, then the chase is filled with filler or plaster and made good before second fix. Chased wiring gives a completely flush, invisible finish once decorated. It is the standard approach for most domestic rewires and gives the neatest long-term result.
The practical implications are significant. Chasing creates significant dust, even with the best dust extraction equipment. It causes disruption to the existing plasterwork, and the filling and making good of chases is generally the responsibility of the decorator or a plasterer, not the electrician. This needs to be established clearly in the scope of work before the job starts, because it affects both the cost and the programme.
In properties where the existing plasterwork is particularly fine, historic, or where chasing would cause unacceptable damage, for example a property with original lime plaster or ornate cornicing, the extent of chasing needs to be carefully considered and discussed in advance. In these cases, surface wiring may be the preferable approach.
Surface trunking and conduit runs cables in a plastic or metal channel fixed to the surface of the wall, visible from the room. Mini trunking, available in white and various sizes, can be painted over and becomes largely invisible once decoration is complete, particularly when run in corners, along skirting boards, or at ceiling level. It is a faster, cleaner, and cheaper installation method and avoids all damage to the existing plasterwork.
Surface trunking is entirely appropriate in many locations: in garages, utility rooms, loft spaces, and outbuildings where appearance is less critical, or where the walls are finished in a way that makes chasing impractical. In living spaces, the choice between chasing and surface trunking is one for the client to make with input from the electrician, based on the property, the budget, and the level of finish required.
In practice, most domestic rewires use a combination of both. Cables are chased in the main living spaces for a clean finish, while surface routes are used in accessible roof spaces, under floors, through void spaces, and in utility areas. A good electrician will plan the cable routes to minimise chasing and use accessible routes wherever the final appearance allows it.
Redecoration After a Rewire
A rewire is a trades process, not a decoration process, and the condition in which the electrician leaves the walls and ceilings needs to be understood clearly before work starts.
Standard practice is for the electrician to fill chases with a first coat of filler to a reasonable standard: the chase should be filled flush, not left proud or hollow. However, a chase that has been filled by an electrician is not finished to a decorator’s standard. It will need skimming over, sanding, and priming before paint will lay evenly over it. If the chase cuts through previously papered walls, the paper will need to be stripped back from the area and replaced, or the whole wall repapered.
The extent of the redecoration following a rewire, and who is responsible for it, should be agreed before the job starts. In most cases the arrangement is one of the following: the electrician fills chases to a first-coat standard and the client arranges their own decorator to complete the making good and redecoration; or a tradesperson is engaged separately to follow the first fix with a skim coat over all chases before second fix, leaving the walls in a condition ready for a single coat of paint. The second approach adds cost but gives a cleaner result.
In properties being fully renovated, where plastering is already in the programme, this issue does not arise: the plasterer follows first fix, skims all surfaces, and the result is indistinguishable from new. This is one of the strongest arguments for undertaking a rewire during a broader renovation rather than as a standalone job.
Where only specific rooms or circuits are being rewired rather than the whole property, carefully localised chasing can minimise the decoration disruption. An electrician who takes the time to protect floors, furniture, and adjacent surfaces, and who fills neatly, makes the decorator’s job considerably easier and the disruption considerably less noticeable.
Occupied vs Empty Properties
A rewire in a completely empty property is significantly faster and less complicated than one in an occupied home. With no furniture to work around, no occupants to coordinate with, and no need to restore power at the end of each day, the electrician can work in the most efficient sequence and with full access to every room simultaneously. Empty property rewires are substantially more straightforward to programme and often complete faster than the indicative timescales above.
A rewire in an occupied property requires more careful management. The electrician typically works room by room, completing the first fix in one area before moving on, and restoring temporary power where possible at the end of each working day. There will be periods where the property has no power, and the client needs to plan for this. The electrician should be clear at the start of the job about which circuits will be off and for how long on each day, so the occupants can plan accordingly.
For households with young children, elderly or infirm occupants, people working from home, or anyone who depends on electrically powered medical equipment, the planning conversation before work starts is particularly important. A rewire can always be phased to manage the disruption for vulnerable occupants, but this requires discussion and agreement before the programme is set.
Sequencing With Other Building Work
The single most cost-effective way to rewire a property is to do it at the same time as other significant building work where walls are already open or decoration is already being replaced. The overhead of chasing, making good, and redecorating is an unavoidable cost when a rewire is done in a finished property. When the property is already in a state of controlled demolition for a renovation, that overhead effectively disappears.
Kitchen and bathroom refits are a natural opportunity to include rewiring work in the affected areas, even if the rest of the house is not being rewired at the same time. A kitchen refit typically involves removing units and appliances, which gives access to chase in new cables for additional sockets, updated appliance supplies, and any new circuits the kitchen specification requires. The cost of rewiring the kitchen is substantially lower when it is done at first fix during a kitchen refit than when it is done retrospectively in a finished kitchen.
Extensions require new electrical circuits from the consumer unit regardless of the existing installation. If the consumer unit is being upgraded as part of the extension work, which is usually the case, this is an ideal time to extend the rewire into parts of the main house that need attention. Running a new circuit to the extension while the walls are open, and taking the opportunity to upgrade circuits in adjoining rooms, costs only marginally more than running the extension circuit alone.
Loft conversions are a particularly strong case for coordinating electrical work carefully. A loft conversion requires at least a new lighting circuit and socket circuit for the new habitable space, and typically a dedicated circuit for any heating. If the loft is being converted at the same time as other work is being done, the cable routes through the main building are accessible during first fix in a way they will not be once the conversion is complete and the ceilings are plastered.
Garages, Garden Rooms, and Outbuildings
The rewire of the main house is increasingly accompanied by a request to supply electricity to garages, garden rooms, home offices, and other outbuildings. These have become a standard part of the domestic electrical picture in a way they simply were not a generation ago.
A detached garage supply requires a buried armoured cable or cables run in suitable conduit from the main consumer unit to a separate consumer unit or distribution board in the garage. The route, depth, and mechanical protection of the buried cable must comply with BS 7671 Regulation 522.6.202 covering cables buried in the ground. The cable should be buried at a depth of at least 500mm in areas where mechanical damage is possible, with appropriate marker tape above it. The garage supply is a new circuit from the consumer unit and is notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations.
Garden rooms and home offices in outbuildings have become a significant part of the domestic construction market. A well-specified garden room supply goes beyond a single socket: it typically includes a sub-distribution board in the garden room, separate circuits for lighting and sockets, and often a dedicated circuit for a heat pump or air conditioning unit. The supply cable route, particularly in gardens with mature planting or landscaping, needs to be carefully considered. Laying cable through soft ground is straightforward; laying it across an established lawn or through a patio area requires more planning and, in some cases, directional boring under hard surfaces rather than cutting and reinstating.
An EV charger in the garage or on the driveway is another increasingly common addition to rewire projects. EV charger installation requires a dedicated circuit, is notifiable work under Part P, and must be carried out by a qualified electrician. Where an EV charger supply is being installed alongside a rewire, coordinating both at first fix stage means a single cable route from the consumer unit and a single programme of work rather than two separate visits and two separate sets of making good.
The overarching point is that the best time to provide supply to a garage, garden room, or outbuilding is when the main consumer unit is being upgraded or the main house is being rewired. The consumer unit is open, the first fix programme is active, and the cost of adding a sub-main cable to an outbuilding at this point is a fraction of what it would cost as a standalone job once the rewire is complete.
Low Voltage, Data, and Smart Home Systems
A modern domestic rewire increasingly involves far more than the mains electrical installation. The additional cabling for data, audio-visual, smart home control, security, and heating systems all shares the same walls and ceiling voids as the mains wiring, and all of it needs to be planned and installed at first fix before the plaster goes on. Trying to add any of these systems after second fix, in a finished and decorated property, means reopening walls, and the cost rises accordingly.
Underfloor Heating
Electric underfloor heating is one of the most common additions to a rewire programme, particularly in kitchen and bathroom refits and ground floor extensions. Electric underfloor heating uses heating mats or cables installed in the floor screed or adhesive bed, with a thermostat controlling the output. Each zone requires its own dedicated circuit, and the thermostat sensor cable needs to be routed at first fix before the floor is finished.
Underfloor heating adds time to the programme in two ways: the additional circuit from the consumer unit to each thermostat position, and the coordination required with the floor installer to ensure the sensor cable and the heating element are correctly embedded before the floor covering is laid. Where multiple zones are specified, a dedicated sub-circuit arrangement or even a dedicated consumer unit position may be appropriate.
Cat6 Data Cabling
Wireless networking has improved dramatically, but a wired network connection is still faster, more reliable, and lower in latency than WiFi for devices that benefit from consistent bandwidth: desktop computers, gaming consoles, home servers, smart televisions, and streaming devices. Running Cat6 data cable to fixed locations throughout the house at first fix costs very little in time and materials compared to the alternative of running cables in surface trunking through finished rooms later.
Cat6, and increasingly Cat6A, is the current standard for domestic structured wiring. The cable runs from a central network cabinet or switch, typically located in the hallway or a utility cupboard near the incoming broadband connection, to wall outlets in each room. At first fix stage, the cable is simply pulled through the same voids as the mains cabling and terminated in face plates at second fix. The runs should be kept within the 90-metre maximum for structured cabling to maintain full gigabit performance.
Planning the data cable positions during the rewire is also the opportunity to provision for outdoor access points, IP cameras, and any external data connections that will otherwise require surface routes after the fact.
WiFi Access Points and Structured Wireless
Even in properties with comprehensive data cabling, wireless coverage needs careful planning. Wireless access points installed in the ceiling of each floor, powered by PoE (Power over Ethernet) from the central switch, give consistent wireless coverage throughout the building without the dead spots, speed drops, and interference of a single router. This approach, common in commercial buildings and increasingly specified in domestic properties, requires a Cat6 home run from each ceiling access point position back to the central switch.
The cabling for ceiling access points is entirely straightforward to install at first fix. The access point itself is fitted at second fix into a standard recessed mounting, and the PoE switch powers it without any separate mains connection at the ceiling position. Planning for three or four ceiling access points in a medium-sized house adds perhaps half a day to the first fix programme and produces a WiFi installation that is dramatically better than anything a surface-mounted router can achieve.
CCTV and Security Cameras
CCTV and security camera systems have become standard in UK domestic properties and are best installed as part of the rewire programme. Modern IP-based CCTV systems use either PoE Cat6 runs from a central network video recorder (NVR) or WiFi-connected cameras. For any cameras that are to be hardwired, the Cat6 cable run to each camera position, including external cameras on the eaves and corners of the building, needs to be installed at first fix before the walls are finished.
External camera positions in particular require careful planning: the cable route from the camera position through the external wall into the roof space or wall cavity, and from there back to the NVR location. Running this cable at first fix, with a short tail exiting through the external wall in the correct position for the camera, adds very little time to the programme. Running it retrospectively in a finished property requires drilling through masonry and running cable externally or in surface trunking.
Where a full perimeter security system with monitored alarm is being installed, the alarm cable (typically four-core alarm cable or a dedicated AV6 equivalent for longer runs) to each detector, door contact, and siren position should also be pulled at first fix. Security alarm installers can provide their cable specification in advance so that the electrician can pull alarm cable alongside data and mains cable in the same first fix programme.
Intercom and Door Entry Systems
Video door entry systems and intercom systems are another first fix item that is easily accommodated during a rewire but disruptive to add retrospectively. A wired video intercom system typically requires a two-core or four-core cable from the door station at the front door to the internal monitor positions. In a property with a detached garage or gate, the intercom cable may need to follow the same buried route as the electrical supply.
Where a smart doorbell or video intercom is to be integrated with the smart home system, the cable type and routing needs to align with whatever system is specified. Agreeing this at first fix stage, when all the other cable routes are being planned, ensures everything arrives at the right location with no surface routes required.
Smart Home Systems and Control Cabling
Smart home systems range from a handful of smart bulbs controlled by a phone app through to fully integrated building management systems controlling lighting, heating, audio-visual, security, and shading from a single interface. Where a significant smart home system is being installed, the cabling requirements need to be agreed and planned as part of the rewire, not as an afterthought.
The most common smart home systems installed in UK domestic properties include Control4, Lutron, Crestron, and Loxone at the higher end of the market, and systems like KNX, Rako, and Fibaro at the mid-range. Each has specific cabling requirements that differ from standard mains wiring. KNX, for example, uses a dedicated two-core bus cable run in a specific topology to every device on the network. Lutron’s RadioRA and Caseta systems use wireless communication but require specific wiring at each keypad and load position. Understanding the specific requirements of the smart home system being installed before first fix is essential to avoid having to open up finished walls later.
At minimum, where a smart home system is being considered but not fully specified, pulling spare cable runs (typically Cat6 and a two-core control cable) to lighting positions, switch positions, and central control locations at first fix preserves the option to add smart control later without major disruption.
Pelmet and Architectural LED Lighting
Pelmet lighting, LED strips mounted in kitchen pelmets, living room alcoves, under stairs, along ceiling coves, and behind televisions, has become a standard element of domestic interior specification. This lighting requires low-voltage 12V or 24V DC supplies via LED drivers, and the driver locations, output cable runs, and switch or dimmer positions all need to be planned and cabled at first fix.
Kitchen pelmet LED lighting typically runs along the underside of the wall units above the worktop, fed from a driver located inside one of the units. The mains feed to the driver, and the switched output to the LED strip, are both cabled at first fix. Living room alcove lighting, cove lighting, and under-stair lighting follow the same principle: a mains supply to the driver position, with the driver supplying the LED strip at low voltage.
Where the lighting is to be dimmable and integrated with a smart home or scene-setting system, the control cabling to the dimmer or controller position also needs to be planned at first fix. A room where the brief is to have cove lighting, pelmet lighting, feature lighting, and general lighting all controllable as scenes requires considerably more first fix cabling than a room with a single ceiling light and two wall sockets.
Multi-Room Audio and Home Cinema
Speaker systems for multi-room audio and home cinema are another first fix item that is effectively invisible once installed and highly disruptive to add after decoration is complete. Speaker cable for in-ceiling or in-wall speakers runs from an amplifier location to each speaker position, and at first fix stage is simply pulled through ceiling voids and wall cavities like any other cable.
For a home cinema room, the cable schedule typically includes speaker cable runs for the front left, centre, front right, surround left, surround right, and subwoofer positions, plus HDMI or HDBaseT runs from the screen position to the equipment rack, and a mains supply for the screen, projector, and equipment rack. All of this is straightforward to install at first fix and represents a relatively small addition to the overall first fix programme. Attempting to install in-ceiling or in-wall speakers in a finished room without chasing and redecorating is not practical.
For multi-room audio, the cable runs from a central amplifier or streamer location to ceiling speakers in each room follow the same logic. Planning the speaker positions, the amplifier location, and the cable routes at first fix stage, even if the audio system itself is not installed until second fix or later, means the infrastructure is in place when it is needed.
Heating Controls and Zoning
Heating control wiring is another category that lives in the same wall voids as the electrical and data cabling and needs to be planned at first fix. In a property with a gas or oil boiler and multiple heating zones, the control cabling from the boiler to each zone valve, thermostat, and programmer position needs to be run at first fix before the walls are finished.
Modern heating control systems, particularly those based on smart thermostats such as Hive, Nest, or Drayton Wiser, require a live, neutral, and switched feed at the thermostat position. Older systems ran on two-core cable, but most current smart thermostats require a three or four core connection. Getting this wrong means either surface-running additional cable later or accepting reduced functionality from the thermostat.
In properties with underfloor heating as the primary heat source, the heating controls are typically more complex: a manifold for the wet UFH circuits, zone actuators for each area, a wiring centre bringing all the zone control cables together, and a thermostat or controller in each zone. The cabling to the wiring centre, from the boiler, and to each thermostat position is all first fix work that needs to be agreed and planned alongside the electrical first fix.
Air source heat pumps, increasingly common in new build and retrofit projects, have their own control wiring requirements: communication cables from the heat pump to the indoor unit or cylinder, thermostat connections, and in some systems additional bus or modbus communication cables for integration with smart home systems. Heat pump installers will specify the cable requirements, but those cable routes need to be agreed before the walls are plastered.
Where a property has mechanical ventilation with heat recovery (MVHR), the controls for the MVHR unit, the boost switches in wet rooms, and any integration with the smart home system all represent additional first fix cable pulls. An MVHR system has its own first fix programme that runs in parallel with the electrical first fix, and the two trades need to coordinate to avoid conflicts in the ceiling void where both sets of ducts and cables are running.
Temporary Supplies for Self-Build Projects
Self-build and major renovation projects frequently require a temporary electrical supply before the permanent installation is complete. A temporary supply allows power tools, site lighting, and welfare facilities to be operated throughout the construction phase without depending on the permanent installation.
In most cases the temporary supply is provided by the District Network Operator (DNO) as a temporary connection to the network, with a temporary consumer unit installed in a weatherproof enclosure on the site boundary. The DNO will require a formal application and a site inspection before connection, and the process can take several weeks. Planning the temporary supply application well in advance of the construction programme start is essential to avoid delays.
Where a temporary DNO connection is not practical or timely, a generator can provide site power. Generator sizing needs to match the expected site loads: a small generator adequate for lighting and hand tools will not run a 230V planer thicknesser or a concrete mixer simultaneously. A site electrician should specify the temporary supply and any temporary distribution boards to ensure the installation is safe and appropriate for the construction environment.
The permanent supply connection, replacing the temporary connection at practical completion, also requires DNO involvement and lead time. In some areas this process can take several months from application to energisation. Planning the permanent connection application early, ideally as soon as the build is underway, avoids the frustrating situation of a completed building waiting weeks for a mains connection before it can be occupied.
Sewage Pumps, Treatment Plants, and Associated Equipment
In rural and semi-rural properties not connected to the mains sewer, sewage treatment and pumping equipment requires a dedicated and reliable electrical supply that needs to be planned as part of the overall electrical installation.
A packaged sewage treatment plant, whether a septic tank with a pump-out chamber, an activated sludge plant, or a reed bed system with a pump, typically requires a dedicated circuit from the consumer unit. This circuit must be reliable: a sewage treatment plant that loses power and fails to pump may result in the system backing up into the property or overflowing to ground. For this reason the circuit is typically on a dedicated RCBO rather than sharing an RCD with other circuits, minimising the risk of an unrelated fault on another circuit taking down the sewage pump supply.
The supply cable route from the consumer unit to the pump chamber or treatment plant often involves a buried armoured cable run of significant length, particularly in rural properties where the treatment plant may be sited at the bottom of the garden or some distance from the house. This cable route needs to be planned at the same time as any other buried cable routes, coordinated with groundworks, and installed to the depth and mechanical protection requirements of BS 7671 Regulation 522.6.202.
Where a sewage pump operates in a below-ground chamber, the installation must comply with the requirements of BS 7671 for equipment in locations with limited accessibility and for wet and damp environments. The pump itself must carry an appropriate IP rating and the connection method must be appropriate for the environment.
Rainwater harvesting systems, which pump filtered rainwater from an underground tank to WCs and garden taps, have similar requirements: a dedicated circuit, a reliable supply, and a buried cable run to the pump unit. These are worth considering at the same time as sewage treatment supplies where both are needed, to coordinate the cable routes and groundworks efficiently.
For self-build properties where the permanent drainage connection is not available at the start of the build, a temporary sewage arrangement, typically a holding tank with a pump-out programme, may be needed during construction. This too requires an electrical supply, and planning the temporary pump supply alongside the temporary site supply avoids having to run a separate temporary cable route to the tank later in the programme.
Each of these additional systems adds time to the first fix programme.
A straightforward mains rewire of a three-bedroom semi might take four to five days for first fix.
The same house with underfloor heating in the kitchen and bathroom, Cat6 data to every room, four CCTV camera positions, ceiling access points on each floor, a smart home lighting system, pelmet LED lighting in the kitchen and living room, and multi-room audio in four rooms might take seven to nine days for first fix as all the additional cable pulls are planned and executed.
This is not a reason to avoid these systems. It is a reason to specify them properly before first fix starts, rather than discovering at second fix that a cable route was not pulled and now requires opening up a finished wall. A detailed schedule of all cables required, for mains, data, audio-visual, control, and security, agreed between the electrician, the smart home installer, the AV installer, and the client before first fix begins, is the most cost-effective approach to a well-specified modern domestic installation.
At the end of second fix, before the supply is connected, the electrician carries out a full inspection and test of the entire installation. This covers all circuits: continuity of protective conductors, insulation resistance, polarity, earth fault loop impedance, prospective fault current, and RCD operation times. Every circuit is tested individually and the results recorded.
On satisfactory completion of testing, the electrician issues an Electrical Installation Certificate.
This document records all the test results and confirms that the installation was designed, installed, inspected, and tested to BS 7671:2018 in its current form.
As a NAPIT-registered contractor, Flodman Electrical self-certifies and notifies building control on your behalf under Part P of the Building Regulations. You also receive a Building Regulations compliance certificate.
These documents should be kept safely for the life of the property. They will be requested by solicitors when you sell, by insurers if you make a claim, and by tenants or agents if you let. They are the evidence that the installation was done properly and that the property’s electrical system has a documented and verified starting point.
What to Ask When Getting Quotes
A rewire quote should be specific, not vague. When comparing quotes from different contractors, look for clarity on the following points.
What does the quote include: consumer unit, all accessories (sockets, switches, light fittings), testing, certification, and Part P notification? Or is the consumer unit priced separately? Are accessories supplied or is that allowance for a standard specification that the client can upgrade?
What is the approach to chasing and making good? Will the electrician fill chases to a first-coat standard, or is the quote on the basis of surface wiring where chasing is not included?
Who is responsible for redecoration? Is that within the electrician’s scope or the client’s?
Does the quote include supply to outbuildings, the garage, or EV charger circuits, or are those priced separately?
What is the programme: start date, expected daily hours on site, and anticipated completion date for first fix and for second fix?
A detailed, itemised quote from a NAPIT-registered electrician gives you the information you need to compare properly and plan your project with confidence.
Talk to Flodman Electrical About Your Rewire
Flodman Electrical are NAPIT-approved electricians based in Farnborough, covering Hampshire, Surrey, and Berkshire.
We carry out full and partial domestic rewires, including supply to garages, garden rooms, and outbuildings, and we coordinate with builders, kitchen fitters, and other trades to minimise the disruption to your home and your programme.
Contact Flodman Electrical to discuss a rewire or request a quote
Flodman Electrical Ltd, NAPIT Approved Contractor. Serving Farnborough, Hampshire, Surrey and Berkshire.
